The wheels of the dark grey Australian military aircraft kissed the tarmac—no, slammed it—sending a tremor through the ground. A shudder rippled outward, kicking up a furious halo of dust. The aircraft, all muscle and menace, rumbled to a halt beneath the brown cloud, its fuselage gleaming like a predator freshly landed in hostile territory. “Welcome to East Timor,” blurted out Paul Guering, an Irishman and United Nations Volunteer (UNV) official, as the scorching heat of Dili, the capital greeted us on a sunny afternoon in late June 1999. Paul was overseeing the deployment of the first batch of UN Volunteers from a temporary staging base in Darwin, Australia, to East Timor. Nearly 100 of us were on that plane, a motley crew of veteran UN peacekeepers, civilian police officers, and bright-eyed volunteers from across the globe.
We had all answered the call to serve in the historic United Nations Assistance Mission in East Timor (UNAMET), a political mission, established by the UN Security Council on June 11, 1999. Our task: to help organize and conduct a UN-sponsored referendum in which the Timorese people would vote on whether to remain under Indonesian autonomy or pursue full independence.